Monday, June 13, 2011

Hell on wheels

Just a couple of things further to my last blog about the Mayan Villages we visited. All through our travels of Mexico we have seen a huge amount of churches and crosses. Randomly through the country side we saw crosses. I'd been thinking, wow, those Catholics sure did the work on these people, but that's not necessarily so. The cross for the Mayans means life. Back at the Mayan ruins we visited the cross featured predominantly in their architecture, as windows. It also means wind. It was somehow comforting to learn this.
Also, we visited two villages. We spent most of the tour in the first one, Chamula and most of my last blog was about this village. The second one we really only visited one of their churches but Ceaser pointed out some of the differences as we stood in their church. For a start, here we saw a group of half a dozen women waiting for a bible class. This village had taken on a lot more of the Catholic religion than the first village we visited. This church was oozing with flowers, again it was beautiful. These people believed in weddings and only one wife. Both villages had their own dress. Chamula women wore heavy black wool skirts and a blue shawl while the women of Zinacantan wore beautiful colorful embroidered shawls. It was said by outsiders that Chamula people were lazy and dirty and the Zinacantan people far more industrious and clean living. But there was absolutely no animosity between the two villages. When their leaders visited each other, they would swap hats.



Also, there were a few more instances of western influence. For example, parked on the perimeter of the village square were all the youths in their cars, the familiar doof doof emanating from their interiors. And Ceaser said, yes, they get the Internet, they are in touch with the world out there. I asked if the youth rebelled against their culture. Si, some do he said. But they always come back.
Interestingly, that night I read the Dalai Lama's status update on Facebook; if I have belief in any religion it is most definitely Buddhism. It read; Because of the great differences in our ways of thinking, it is inevitable that we have different religions and faiths. Each has its own beauty. And it is much better that we live together on the basis of mutual respect and mutual admiration.
Yep.
From that wonderful day the next phase of our journey is downright horrible. We took a night bus from San Cristobal to Puerto Escondido. A whole different kettle of fish to the day trips we have taken. Plus, guess what... I am still plagued with abdominal cramps and diaoreah. Yep. 13 hours of anxiety that any moment I am going to have to dash to that little cubicle of hell at the back of the bus. After 6 hours of travel,we left at about 7pm, I realize in typical style I am not going to sleep either so I take a sleeping tablet. And I mange to doze intermittently for three hours. Waking every time the bus stopped and took on, or let off, more passengers. Gee, that was a long 13 hours. But at least the seats on a bus are more comfortable than a plane. We arrive at Puerto Escondido early in the morning and we are lucky it's off season and our hotel lets us check in straight away.
Puerto Escondido has a reputation as a surfie town. Mez and I knew we wanted a beach break and we also knew that places like Cancun weren't our cup of tea. We suspected that puerto Escondido might not be either, but we wanted beach and there we were. We had investigated a few other places nearby but this was where the bus dropped us so we would play it by ear. puerto Escondido was like a coastal ghost town. It was very quiet. We could imagine what it would be like in busier times and although it was okay I think we both felt that Mexico must have something more up our alley. Perhaps it was the two police that sat in a shaded enclosure with big guns resting on their laps that made us feel this way, and the fact that Lonely Planet had advised the biggest concern in Puerto Escondido was the police who would get you for something as minor as making out on the beach. We should be so lucky ;)
Finally able to access the hotels wifi that afternoon we continued our research and settled on a place again recommended by Mez's brother; Manutze about 50 minute drive from Puerto Escondido. Being the off season accommodation was cheap and we were able to book a high end place for $60 each a night.
OMG!!! the cabbie dropped us off and we walked up to what was reception and the general lounge and restaurant area. My breath was taken away, and at a totally different end of the tangent to my previous most exciting moment of the trip, I thought this could well be the highlight of my trip... I am such a beach person.






The view from our room's verandah.
We've booked four nights here and we're on day two. It was a rest we both needed. A holiday within a holiday. Traveling is really exhausting (oh, poor us), truly it is. And with being sick and all I really thought 4 days at the beach was just what I needed. My dear old mum always maintained the beach is a cure all for everything. Well she's right. I'm real good now, and all those kilos I've lost over the last 3 weeks are fast going back on with Coronas by the pool! I just hope the 200 steps we have to climb to get to our beautiful beach do something to negate at least half those beers.



They promised us a storm yesterday but it never came, as I write there is thunder rumbling, maybe tonight...

One more day and night here and we're off to Oaxaca - the final leg of this wonderful, wonderful trip.


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