Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Last leg

Phew, after a nervous few hours this morning, I've found that the Sydney airport has resumed normal flights so my return trip will not be interrupted after all. Not so for my daughter Nina who is currently waiting for flights to return to normal from Tassie. The volcanic ash from the Chilean volcano not quite dispersed there yet. She and her husband have had a terrible time of it in my absence and are there attending Alan's mum's funeral. Such a devastating loss for his family, Liz was only just 50. I remember my mum one day in palliative care when she'd had a rare moment of feeling sorry for herself she said, and i'm not sure who she was appealing to, 'but I'm only 74.' Yes, indeed. Cheated of seeing great grandchildren and of enjoying the quiet comfortable life she had achieved and which she so deserved after being such a hard worker all her life. Liz, who bought up three kids mostly on her own, another battler, cruelly cheated and missing so many of the things she deserved to enjoy. And of course her kids, missing her with all that's ahead of them. Ups and downs. RIP Liz.
So, I am hoping Nina and Alan get on a flight soon, and not just because Nina had arranged to pick me up from the airport on Thursday morning, but because I just want to give her and Alan the biggest hug I can muster. And just be there for them.
That aside, and also put aside my boring gastric complaints, this holiday has been brilliant. I confess to being nervous about traveling with a friend after my experience in New York a couple of years ago, but Merryon and I got along brilliantly. In three weeks together we never uttered a cross word, or even muttered under our breath for that matter. Not one disagreement. But we kind of knew things should be okay. We've known each other for 11 years. We started work together at the Queensland Writers Centre in 2000, along with a couple of other brilliant ladies, Sharon Dunne, Vanessa Whitelaw, Kat Pitt, Sam Bake, and we all worked there for 5 years together and have all remained the best of friends. Mez and I are very much on the same page so in our early discussions of the trip we always agreed on where we wanted to go and what we wanted to see. We also were on the same budget, and I think this was a very vital ingredient for success. I think the best example of our being like minded was when we'd finally arrived on the coast at Puerto Escondido, I'd been battling with the aforementioned gastric complaints and really, being a tourist is bloody exhausting, and we decided to head to some high end accommodation right on the beach at Mazunte and just chill for 4 days. Omg, what a joy that was. And what a relief to slow down. mazunte and the place we stayed, at really low prices, was just perfect. It was a break my system needed and a holiday within a holiday we both needed and deserved.
Our last stop was Oaxaca, where we had 5 days. Oaxaca was lovely. One day we did a cooking class with the chef of the restaurant connected to the B&B where we stayed. It was just Mez and I who did the class and we started in the markets where our teacher Pilar gave us a rundown of local ingredients, and a bit of oaxacan cooking history. Sadly up until this point I can't say I'd been enjoying Mexican fare, or anything much for that matter. The Mexican food I'd had in Rosarito Beach at the start of my trip was very mediocre, and then once I'd gotten the bug, I couldn't even bear to smell anything that remotely resembled the food I'd had there. But I was optimistic that by seeing the produce bought and cooked fresh it might take my culinary experience of Mexico to a different level. But not entirely confident. As even as we were helping to chop and grind herbs and chilis I still wasn't enthusiastic about eating anything. But finally we sat down to what we'd prepared. And I was blown away. It was all so delicious. I was so glad we'd done the course, and I'd had the opportunity to be in Pilar's home and see the cooking done by an expert who was passionate about food and her history.
The bug has come and gone, and come again and I will be getting checked out on my return, thanks to my friend Jaya who has put me onto a good doctor. It takes a bit to convince me to get to a doctor but I think if I can't take a recommendation from my old hippy yoga teacher, and faithful follower of my blogs, who could I listen to. Xx Jaya.
Oaxaca was also fantastic for markets and Artisan Co-ops. And like everything in Mexico, so cheap. My bags are literally bulging with little goodies for my loved ones, and I'm embarrassed at how much I've bought myself. But as my good mate Mez agreed, we deserve it!!!!!!
Mez headed off to the next leg of her journey at 6.15 this morning. She is off to Miami to catch up with a good friend who has just has twin boys, and then another week in NYC, with her new friend Al. How romantic... So excited for her.
And I am killing a couple of hours before check out time at the wonderful B&B we first stayed in at Mexico City, the red tree house. What an example of hospitality and warmth. Run by half a dozen or so gorgeous men, I think I would have to vote it the best all rounder out of all the great places we've stayed. When we arrived yesterday, after being away on our 2 weeks of exploring the rest of Mexico, Victor, one of our hosts was there to open the gate for us with a big smile on his face and a hug and a kiss. He took our bags and as we passed through the courtyard offered us a beer. Every evening at this place the hosts provide complimentary beers and wines. And every evening we met someone new, and sometimes we caught up with familiar faces. A great place that I recommend entirely.
In fact, I recommend Mexico entirely (maybe not so much the north end). Airfares, a little bit dear, but once you're here it's cheap as chips and you get a lot of bang for your buck. Take buses once your here so you can really see the place. Although I wouldn't recommend the 13 hour overnight one we did from San Cristobal to Puerto Escondido, try to get a Plane if you're going that way!
The place oozes with history and culture. Fascinating.
But boy, I can't wait to get home.


this picture taken in Mexico City where students not once but twice, targeted us for a project they were doing on Tourism. With clumsy English they asked us questions like where were we from, what attracted us to Mexico etc etc.

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